Tag Archives: tarangire

The 2019 wish-list (continued): Tanzania’s time to shine

‘Beests, beaches & natural bounty

Tanzania epitomises ‘safari’ Africa. Whether it’s a herd of elephant crossing in front of you, a stampede of wildebeest or a perfectly framed giraffe and acacia in the sunset, the scale of the place,  and the sheer beauty of its natural bounty cannot fail to impress.

For a holiday, Tanzania is a smart option – there is very little time change (GMT+3hrs) so you don’t spend all your time off feeling scrambled,  it’s accessible for much of the year, depending on what you want to do and where you want to visit, and there’s great variety – you can climb a mountain, enjoy safari on foot, bicycle and by 4WD, spend nights under canvas or in luxury lodges,  head for the beaches or escape to the hills.

elephants- julianPicture 073Dhow on ZNZ beachThe Northern Circuit parks (Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Manyara and Tarangire) are a great destination for families  and first-time visitors. Your journey includes descending steep crater walls to the floor of the iconic Ngorongoro Crater. Our tip – don’t try to do too much if short on time and if budget allows – fly back from the Serengeti (…and on to the beaches of Zanzibar!)  The south offers vast reserves (Selous and Ruaha) where traffic density is very low and wildlife encounters are hugely rewarding. We also organise fly-in safaris to the remote western area of Tanzania (Mahale and Gombe) for adventurous chimp trekking  or if adventure is what you seek – how about  climbing Kilimanjaro?

Tanzania has been out of the spotlight for the last couple of years –  the governments decision to impose 18% tourism tax on services previously exempt from tax, with only a few weeks notice back in July 2016,  was undoubtedly damaging to visitor numbers.

However, a couple of years on and things have settled. Tanzania has seen new camps/lodges open, there are some competitive airfares, with airlines like Qatar flying into Kilimanjaro (Arusha) and Zanzibar, there’s a new online visa system and efforts continue to safeguard migration corridors and protect wildlife.

25% of Tanzania’s land is protected and the growth and success of eco-tourism is hugely important to not only the wildlife, but to local communities.

With such an undeniable bounty of natural riches, we see Tanzania coming back strong in 2019.

Here are five reasons to include this spectacular country on your travel radar:

WWshutterstock_1395341961.The Wildlife IMG_2192Tanzania has the largest concentration of animals in Africa – we’re talking 4 million wild animals. The Serengeti is a must-visit for a dizzying diversity of species, including an impressive list of predators. Rhino remain hard to see but they are there – you may be lucky and get a glimpse in the  Moro Kopjes area, or in the neighbouring Ngorongoro.

Tarangire is the best place for huge impressive herds of elephants while the west of the country is where you can search for primates in the beautiful Mahale Mountains or world-famous Gombe National Park, where Dr Jane Goodall has been so influential in the conservation of chimpanzees.

Long beaked common dolphins shutterstock_527159677Marine reserves around the Spice Islands offer safe haven for turtles, rays, dolphins, whales and other species. Whether you want a Robinson Crusoe meets Jacques Cousteau experience at somewhere like Pemba or Mafia Island, or to relax on the soft sands of Zanzibar watching the dhows sail by plus a night or two in atmospheric Stone Town, Tanzania offers plenty of opportunity to dip your toes in the Indian Ocean.

2.The Great Migration

WWshutterstock_221791825For 75% of the year, the annual Wildebeest Migration roams the Serengeti and Greater Ngorongoro Conservation Area. This is the world’s longest overland migration and involves 1.5 million animals. The river crossings in the northern Serengeti mark the pinnacle of the migration rewarding visitors with dramatic scenes akin to television documentaries. This experience is sure to get the heart thumping. Find out more>>>

 

DSC_00863.The Roof of Africa – Kilimanjaro

Majestic Kili at 5,895m is Africa’s highest peak and the world’s highest walkable mountain. Gaze in awe at its snow-capped peak or become one of the 25,000 trekkers scaling its slippery slopes annually.

4.The Spice Islands 

mnemba-island-lodge-51.jpg.950x0Safari and beach is a dream holiday combo and in Tanzania you are truly spoilt for choice. For those exploring the northern circuit safari parks (Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Manyara, Tarangire), a few days on Zanzibar or Pemba pre or post safari works a dream. For those further south in the Selous or Ruaha, opt for Mafia Island, or stay on the beautiful mainland coast at somewhere like Ras Kutani. Find out more>>>

RA fleet & drivers Kenya DSC_71105.The People

There are over 160 different tribes living in Tanzania. Getting to know a bit about the local customs and culture is a major part of a trip to Tanzania – you’ll find the people warm and incredibly hospitable. The best way to get to grips with the Northern Circuit parks is to head off in your own private 4WD with a driver/guide. All our guides are local and take great pride in introducing you to their country.

Thinking of a holiday to Tanzania? It couldn’t be easier – just give us a ring on 01603 964 730 or email your enquiry to paul@realafrica.co.uk

To find out more about holidays to Tanzania you may like to browse the information pages on our website.

The Northern Circuit Three Ways:

On a Shoestring ?  See Small Group Escorted Safari here.

Looking for luxury? See sample Tanzania in Luxury Safari here.

For the Ultimate Tanzania Safari please click here.

 

webDSC_0756Easy-peasey-visa

Tanzania now offers an easy online visa application service – single entry visas are $50USD and can be paid online with a credit card.

Find out more here.

  • New for 2019

There has been a crop of new camps and lodges open in Tanzania, strengthening the offering and increasing choice for visitors. You may be interested in the following:

Lemala-Mpingo-RidgeTarangire

Lemala Mpingo Ridge Tented Camp –

We are very excited about this addition to the Lemala portfolio allowing guests to combine Lemala properties in the Serengeti, Ngorongoro and Tarangire.  Each of the 15 spacious tented suites have been carefully positioned to maximize  views over Tarangire. All offer en-suite bathrooms, private decks, sunken outside lounges that convert to afternoon siesta beds and one of the suites has two bedrooms, perfect for families.
The elevated main lodge has a large lounge and bar, indoor and outdoor dining areas, a spa and swimming pool. Sundowners, early morning walks and game drives in new custom-designed vehicles accompanied by Lemala’s highly-knowledgeable and experienced guides are some of the activities guests can look forward to during their stay.
Serengeti
Lemala Nanyukie Camp opened to guests in October 2018 and is located a 45-minute drive east of the Seronera Airstrip in the park’s central region, and is superbly located with outstanding views across the plains. The camp itself sits on a grassy savanna dotted with rocky kopjes and shaded by ancient giant acacia trees. There are just 15 guest tents.
Melia Serengeti Lodge – this is the first state-of-the-art sustainable hotel by MHI, and the hotel of around 50 rooms offers ‘off the grid’ living and a great viewpoint for the annual migration. This new -ish property suits people not keen on tented camps and after a few more facilities. It’s a lot bigger than most of the properties we tend to offer but we like the commitment to sustainability.
Kati Kati galeria_KT_3Kati Kati Mara/Ndutu camps are solar-powered stripped back ‘explorer style’ mobile camps complete with safari bucket showers. The camps are positioned to get you to the heart of the action and move seasonally for the Great Migration. Kati Kati Mara is located in northern Serengeti for the river crossings (Jun – Oct/Nov) and Ndutu is in the southern Serengeti for wildebeest calving season (Dec – Mar). There are 11 tents plus one family tent.
Zuri 2018-07-19-02-56-03-d4faa8f0e1c1273dfe6f57055dba72ff Zuri Beach 2018-07-19-02-58-22-19865dd2e9da80604e2e30d2a475c65bZanzibar
Zuri Zanzibar opened in summer 2018 and offers guests access to one of the most beautiful (and non tidal) beaches on Zanzibar, Kendwa Beach.  Zuri sits on the north-west shore around 50km from Stone Town. There are 55 suites, villas and bungalows with sunset views. This would be great for a few days after a safari or as a week long holiday in its own right.
Yes please!
>>>Up next…Botswana

 

 

Hitting the heights on an African balloon safari

Ever wondered what its like to do a balloon safari in Africa? Robert was in Tanzania recently and went flying over Tarangire National Park.

I was woken at 5.30am by one of the Masai guards knocking gently on my tent. Fifteen minutes later, having been escorted by the same guard to the restaurant, I was standing on its terrace drinking fresh brewed coffee and taking to our pilot. Called Nihat, he had over 3,000 flight hours under his belt and spoke perfect English.

“I’ve been flying in Tarangire for over 2 years,” he informed me as he swigged syrupy coffee from a mug. “During that whole time I’ve never had to cancel a flight. The weather here is always excellent.”

Our land cruiser pulled up and we climbed in, leaving the camp as the first hint of dawn touched the eastern sky. It was a short drive, initially on a rough track before cutting off through the savannah to the launch site. The crew had arrived before us. The basket was in place, lying on its side with the burners and fuel all stowed and secured. The balloon was laid out flat on the grass and as we got out of our vehicle a large fan started blowing the first hot air into it. It rolled around, making it ripple like water in a bowl. Two crew pulled on a rope tied to the top of the balloon, keeping it taut.

Once the balloon was semi-inflated the burners started blasting into it and within minutes it was trying to lift itself into the sky, the two men on the rope now joined by a third as they fought to keep it down. On a signal from Nihat they released the rope and the balloon swung into the air, gently pulling the basket upright as it fought to get away. It was not yet inflated enough to lift from the ground, even if the basket hadn’t been anchored to a land cruiser.

We climbed into the basket. In a central section stood Nihat, surrounded in gas bottles and with the controlling ropes hanging in front of him. Either side the basket was dived into two sections, each with a low bench. Nihat gave a long burn, the heat strong on my head through the hat I was wearing. Slowly we rose off the ground and hung for a few moments on the anchor rope as final checks were done. When he was happy, Nihat released the rope and we rose into the African sky.

It was surprising how quickly we left the ground behind. It was so gentle it felt as if nothing was moving and yet the World shrank in size and dropped away below us. When we got to 500 metres we levelled off, the whole of Africa seemingly stretching away in all directions. Lake Manyara was to the west, its white bed catching the gentle light of dawn. To its south was Lake Eyasi while to the north was Mt. Meru and Kilimanjaro.

Tarangire was spread beneath us like an enormous pop-up map, the river that gives the Park its name meandering through its heart.

“We’ve come up to find the breezes,” Nihat explained. “Different altitudes have winds that blow in different directions, its useful to know if I wan to move the balloon.” He nodded to the right. “Here there is a breeze from the East. I can use it if we need to get closer to some animals.”

We slowly descended as we approached the river, almost skimming the treetops as we dropped into its bed so that the steep-sided banks stood higher than we floated. Birds flew around us, their dawn chorus clearly audible  and a herd of impala stood together watching as we passed, their tails twitching nervously. Nihat gave a long burn, the heat hot on my skin in the cool of morning, and after a few seconds the balloon responded and carried us over the approaching Baobabs and above an acacia forest.

A family of elephants turned to face us, their trunks lifted as they tried to smell what was approaching. With one shrill trumpet, the matriarch told them to follow and she head off at a brisk pace into the undergrowth, her companions following in a line with the youngest in the middle. A couple of outlying members trumpeted in alarm, receiving an answering call to guide them in the right direction as we drifted overhead and away. My last sight of them was of them turning to face us once more, shaking their heads and returning to their grazing.

A herd of buffalo, maybe 150 strong, didn’t flinch as we passed overhead, oblivious to their silent watchers. A silver-backed jackal, jogged past and a family of hyenas sat warming themselves in the early-morning sun. Giraffes stood watching with idle curiosity while different types of antelope grazed unperturbed.

In a blink of the eye an hour had passed. Nihal had been looking for a landing spot, his spotters on the balloon radioing the back-up crew when a suitable place was spotted. We rose up, making use of that easterly breeze we’ed discovered earlier, before slowly drifting down to land in a spot I’d have thought it impossible to land in. When we were a few metres above the ground we all sat on the small benches in our sections of the balloon, holding rope ties oppositeand heads lowered. There was a gentle bump and the basket settled. We were down.

“You can sit up now,” Nihat instructed us and we stood as the crew rushed around with small blankets, throwing them over any prickly bushes that might snag the balloon as it deflated. The support vehicle arrived and we clambered out, about to be whisked away to a champagne breakfast. After the exhilaration of the flight, even that was going to be a bit flat.

Robert stayed at Tarangire Balloon Camp, where the balloon safaris are based and operated by Adventures Aloft.

By Robert Ferguson.

Tanzania safari in October: the wait for the small rains

Robert, one of our Directors, is just back from Tanzania and writes about his experiences of the Northern National Parks – Tarangire, Lake Manyara and the Ngorongoro Crater – as they wait for the dry season to end and bring much needed rain to the land and relief to the animals.

They certainly didn’t exaggerate about the number of elephants in Tarangire. Having never been to Tanzania in October at the end of the summer dry season, it was one of the things I was looking forward to. We’d only been through the National Park entrance gate for 10 minutes or so when the first group, a family of about ten, walked past. Let by a grand matriarch, and with a couple of youngsters being hurried along in the middle of the group, we stopped to let them cross the track as they head towards the river for a drink.

Later that day, on the afternoon game drive, we saw lots more as we explored the south of the park. Mostly in smaller groups, Hashim our guide explained that the big herds had split up because of the scarcity of water. I could see what he meant. The Tarangire River was down to the size of a stream and many of its tributaries had dried up completely, large holes dotting their beds where animals had dug in the sand looking for a drink.

The dried up marshlands of Tarangire National Park

One larger family, with about 15-20 members, walked alongside us for a while. They turned and crossed in front of us, heading for the marsh areas of the reserve, now seemingly little more than dusty plains. The larger elephants stopped and watched us as the youngsters crossed about 30 metres away, calmly but carefully watching us. Their caution was palpable and justified. Tarangire is an unfenced Park, the elephants travelling in corridors to other Parks and reserves, leaving them exposed to poachers whose activities have increased again given the ridiculous prices paid in Asia for Ivory. At least for now they were safe.

The landscape was brown and arid, hardly any green to be seen except on the top of a few trees where the vegetation was out of reach to the giraffes. Man smaller trees and shrubs had been pushed over by elephants as they searched for food. It made the game-viewing easy, with no tall grasses or bushes to obscure your view, and the large herds of buffalo throwing up large dust clouds as they moved on in search of water and grazing.

Lake Manyara: lush forest to dry foreshore.

Next stop was Lake Manyara National Park, only a couple of hours away along a good tarmac road. Its entrance is near the small town of Mto wa Mbu which appears out of the dusty plains like an oasis in the desert. Watered by streams that flow from the tall escarpment that dominate it, its fields and plantations grow maize, cereals, bananas, mangoes and many other crops that are sold in the nearby market.

A view of Lake Manyara National Park, Tanzania

We stopped and I was joined by a local guide, a young woman called Helen who was from the village and had just qualified from University as a guide. We wandered off into the fields, passing hamlets and houses, talking to women in the fields and children on their way back from school. I’m not a big one for cultural tours but this was excellent, a relaxed unobtrusive insight into the everyday life of these people. I ate a red banana, drank some banana beer and bought some mangoes in the market.

Entering into Manyara, the whole landscape was immediately different from Tarangire. Similarly to Mto wa Mbu, it lie on the floor of the Great Rift Valley, tucked up under the escarpment whose springs provide water even at the end of the dry season. I had the feel of a lush, tropical forest, with the birdsong to match. The track crossed numerous streams, each running through thick, green foliage and with a myriad of butterflies darting through the sunlight.

Spotting game is harder. We saw a small herd of buffalo carefully watching us from a safe distance. Some tiny dik-dik, a small antelope, grazed beside the waters, their bodies trembling with a nervous energy generated from being the bottom of the food chain. The bird life was spectacular, from eagles to bee eaters.

Stopping at a National Park picnic stop we ate our picnic lunch with a great view of the Lake in the distance and an array of small, colourful birds chirping enthusiastically for crumbs we ma drop (In Tanzania, unlike Kenya, vehicles have to stay on tracks n the National Parks and only stop a designated picnic spots. They are usually well sited, with tables provided and clean toilets.)

A giraffe stands on the dusty foreshore of Lake Manyara, Tanzania

When we reached its shore, much of Lake Manyara looked like a white, salt pan. Its soda waters had receded to about a quarter of its normal size as it awaited the small rains of late October/early November. A line of wildebeest walked in single file along its shoreline, with a couple of giraffe standing out in the wide, open spaces alone, like solitary trees. Dust devils twisted their way across the landscape, pulling dust high into the sky. Behind it all rose the escarpment, the end of the Great Rift Valley in which we were standing, and the start of the Ngorongoro Highlands.

We returned to the gate via the lush forest, a contrast that makes Manyara, in my opinion, one of the most diverse. We forded a small river, waved enthusiastically as a bus load of local school children on a school outing, their shrieks of excitement as they hung from windows competing with the noise of the park and started the climb out of the Rift valley.

The Ngorongoro Crater: Brown grass and no shade for the panting game.

My last stop was the Ngorongoro Crater, no more than an Hour and a half from Manyara. At the entrance to the National Park is where the tarmac runs out. This is the road to the Serengeti and on to the Kenyan border and the Masai Mara. It’s a track the whole way, well maintained and graded, but slower than on the tarmac roads enjoyed to this point.

Wildebeest walking towards a waterhole in the Ngorongoro Crater.

The weather had closed in, a thick cloud obscuring the sun and a light rain had fallen. We started the climb from the Park entrance towards the rim of the crater but came to a sharp stop in a traffic jam. I’m used to these on the motorways of the UK but half-way up an extinct volcano I rural Tanzania, it came as a bit of a surprise. We got out of our 4×4 safari vehicle and walked p the queue, meeting a large group of Masai, all carrying bags, coming towards us. It was their bus, they informed us. The rain had made the track too slippery for its worn tyres to grip on and it had slid into the gutter at the side of the road.

Looking up at the sound of excited voices, we saw their bus heading towards us, pushed by an enthusiastic crowd as it bumped its way along the raised bank. Lucky for them, Hashim remarked, that they were stuck on the uphill side of the road. The drop on the other was enough to get your eyes watering. It bounced past us, disappearing into the mist, and we resumed our journey.

At the edge of the Crater we turned back eastwards, driving in the mist around the rim until we found a less used access road in. It’s a 2,000 descent to the floor of the crater, and within moments of starting we dropped from the mist and had the whole Ngorongoro Crater before us. The cloud we’d been in sat on the southern edge, the rest was in brilliant sunshine. It was spectacular.

On the far side was the lake and the fertile marshlands watered by a spring and still green. It is this spring hat gives the crater its name. Used by the Masai to water their herds in the dry season, the long climb down and back up made the rough bells that the cattle wear constantly ring. The word “Ngorongoro” means this, roughly translated as “always ring and ring”. We passed German Hill, the location of ranch established by early settlers but long since vanished. Lions got up and stretched in front of us, distant rhino grassed in the northern marsh. As the heat grew, the animals slowed and stopped. With hardly any shade in the Crater they had nowhere to retreat to, so simply stopped moving. Wildebeest stood in groups, a hyena lay beside the track asleep, lions did what they did best – nothing at all.

A safari in Tanzania in October?

A Real Africa safari vehicle and one of our guides Hashim.

So, was it good to visit Tanzania on a safari holiday in October? It was excellent, different from my other trips. It was dry and dusty, rivers were low or dry, lake shrunken and the landscape brown. It was the image of a parched Africa and the game-viewing, unobstructed by foliage and grasses was excellent. I like rainy seasons normally, a couple of hours rain a small price to pay for experiencing the fresh, verdant landscapes as the plains spring to life. Game-viewing is more difficult, tracks become impassable, but I like the colour. Now I like this landscape too. And the elephants in Tarangire were worth the journey in themselves.

By Robert Ferguson.