This week we are following Lily as she leaves the Highlands and travels to East Africa’s very own Lake District to visit Lake Nakuru and Lake Elementeita.
We left Ol Pejeta and took the short cut ‘over the tops’ from near Aberdare Country Club to the B4 on a very rough road but saving lots of time by doing so. En route we also stopped at the beautiful Thompson Falls where you can stop at a colonial safari lodge with great views of Falls. All the way on our four hour journey from Mountain Lodge to Lake Nakuru in the Rift Valley we were fascinated by the lushness of scenery and all the wonderfully fertile land so neatly planted. There were fields upon fields of maize, vegetables, wheat, coffee and tea. There were also plenty of herds of cattle, goats, sheep, and of course their herd boys. The main thing that really struck me though was the huge number of people walking along the roads. Not surprising really in such a poor country where a car is a highly prized item and walking is the only option. It’s just that there seemed to be so many people out walking at the same time – it just shows how heavily populated the fertile farmlands are. Many of the populace were actually on their way to church looking very neat, clean and tidy which is miraculous really when you see how poor and ramshackle their tin shacks are. All in all there were so many contrasts on this journey from the Central Highlands to the Rift Valley, the journey was never dull.
As we descended into the Rift Valley towards Lake Nakuru, the views were truly breathtaking. Our driver, guide and now friend, Sammy pointed out the Menengai Crater which if one had the spare time would be a good hike from Nakuru. The culture shock was as we drove through Nakuru Town – it seemed we had left a time warp up in the Highlands! Here there were filling stations, big shops, fancy cars, cattle, crowded pavements, motorbikes and people everywhere going out their business. Down in the lowlands the weather was much drier and hotter.
After passing through Lake Nakuru Gate and Sammy paying for our permits we drove along the lake shore which had overflowed its banks in many places due to recent heavy rains. Although not large (188 square kilometres), Lake Nakuru is a beautiful park with a scenic landscape dotted about with tracks to a variety of hides and lookouts. It is an easy park to visit which is why on a safari tour we usually include a day tour. This gives clients a good overview of the shallow soda lake with its primeval birds and the teeming woodlands with its resident wildlife including zebras, waterbuck, buffalo, white and black rhino, warthog, Thompson and Grants gazelles, impala, Rothschild giraffes, lion and the shy leopard. Although most famous for flocks of pink flamingos, the variety of birds here is stunning. Pelicans, spoonbills, yellow billed storks and cormorants may have outnumbered the flamingos but the splashes of pink were certainly eye-catching enough. There were also several grey crowned cranes, one of my favourite species as well as being the national bird of Uganda. Sadly Kenya’s national bird, the lilac breasted roller, was nowhere to be seen.There is even a small herd of hippo to see so Lake Nakuru does offer a great wildlife experience for the visitor and should certainly not be dismissed as ‘boring’ !
We followed this with lunch at the Sarova Lion Hills Lodge which has a lovely setting and views towards the lake before continuing south towards Lake Nakuru Lodge. The lodge was formerly an old Delamere Estate House and sits in shady gardens with uninterrupted views to Lake Nakuru. The newer and more expensive chalet suites are highly recommended. I also really liked the lodge for its ambience and character and I would have been happy to stay there if time had allowed. We continued our journey ever southwards although at one stage we received a radio call about a leopard sighting to the north so Sammy turned round and speedily drove back up the road until we found the location! We found the elusive leopard in a secluded spot up a tree about 50 yards from the road.The strange thing is with the leopard; it doesn’t matter if how close you are to these elusive creatures, they are always magical!
We drove out of Lake Nakuru National Park’s Nderit Gate and continued south for about 30 kilometres to the shallow soda lake of Elementaita. The lake is often frequented by large aggregations of flamingo, along with plentiful flocks of pink backed and great white pelicans and a plethora of other water birds. There are an estimated 300 bird species in all – a huge variety for such a small lake. The setting for the lake itself is spectacular as it is framed by the broken caldera walls of several extinct volcanoes. The Masai call these peaks Elngiragate Olmorani (Sleeping Warrior) as they look like a reclining figure. It is also the centrepiece for the Soysambu Conservancy, a scenic 250 square kilometre private reserve set on private land whose western border is Lake Nakuru National Park. Though sparsely populated by wildlife, the conservancy hosts plenty of buffalo and antelope and it provides an important refuge for the endangered Rothschild’s giraffe. Wildlife numbers are likely to be boosted if plans to break down the fence between them and Lake Nakuru come to fruition.
We finally arrived late afternoon at Lake Elementeita Serena Luxury Camp, uniquely situated on the shoreline of sapphire-blue Lake Elementaita. This small and exclusive 24 tented camp was an absolute joy in every way and it felt like our personal piece of heaven after our long and exciting day. Warmly welcomed on arrival by the staff and escorted to the mess tent where we sank down into enormous leather armchairs in true colonial style whilst looking out on to rolling lawns and drinking a glass of champagne. Normally I would have said “Its too early for champagne” but this time I said ‘Fabulous, asante sana’ and drank it down in one! The tents are stunning and spacious with a foyer, a huge bedroom (with twin 4 poster style beds), a study area and a bathroom/shower with brass taps etc. Each tent also has its own verandah looking out onto lawns leading down to the lake. Despite being new this camp manages to exude a long-established colonial feel and the food and service are impeccable.
Posted by Lily
