This week we join Lily as she heads to one of the most famous game reserves in the world – the Masai Mara.
The Journey
After an early breakfast which was scrumptious (as expected) we then headed off on the next stage of our Kenyan safari adventure. We faced a journey of 240 kilometres travelling south down the A104, passing Gilgil. One of the many, many interesting sights we passed en route was the long line of wagons queuing up for fuel from the pipeline which starts in Mombasa and ends in Nakuru. The fuel is then taken by tanker lorry onwards to other parts of Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda and beyond. The journey may have been long but it really does give you a great insight into every day Kenya and the lives of the people who live here. You also get to see some great scenery such as the picturesque Mount Longonot and its National Park. When we finally turned off the A104 we head to Narok which is the major administrative centre for northern Masailand. It was truly fascinating to drive through this busy town full of strolling Masai moran in their red checked shukas. It felt very different and we were very aware we were in the Masai lands. After heading to the Sekenani Gate on the eastern side of the Masai Mara National Reserve we travelled on a hard and dusty gravel road for about an hour between the Naboisho and Siana Conservancies. About this time we also noticed the rise in temperature as we headed south. At last it could be time to take off our big boots and replace with them sandals??
The Mara Simba Lodge
Arriving at Sekenani Town, set below the distinctive Ngama Hills, we then arrived at the Barrier Gate, a rather makeshift ranger post which is a shortcut into the Masai Mara. Then it was on to our eventual destination, the Mara Simba Lodge – a lovely lodge set on a bend in the Talek River, a tributary of the mighty Mara River. We drove up the attractive entrance where I finally met Sammy, one of our most popular Real Africa driver – guides, and whom I had been dying to meet. We were very warmly welcomed and shown to our spacious room for the night. The guest rooms are arranged in clusters of six double story natural wood and stone bandas. Each room has a private verandah which looks out on to the Talek River. Stretching almost a kilometer along the river, the lodge’s grounds on the riverbank are left in their natural state, whilst the landscaped gardens are filled with indigenous trees which draw a great variety of birds and butterflies. The lodge was designed to complement its surroundings and is decorated in Maasai traditional style. There are wide, well-lit pathways connect the public areas and the seperate bedrooms. This is a big lodge and was built for the high demand in this south east corner of the Mara. It has a traditional, slightly dated feel decor-wise but the lodge is warm, welcoming and relaxed with excellent staff and delicious food. It is also located in a fantastic part of the Mara with many game driving loops abound in the area. We had afternoon tea and chatted to the other guests before heading off on a game drive with Sammy. On the game drive we were alerted to the sound of tinkling bells in the distance which was a very large herd of Masai cattle with attendant herd boys. Although it is illegal to graze cattle in the reserve itself, it is a fairly common sight around the border areas of the reserve.
The Masai
The Masai are semi-nomadic pastoralists (they rear cattle on wild grassland and as a result sometimes have to travel searching for new grazing pastures). The cattle are fundamental to the tribe’s survival and there is an almost mystical relationship with their herds. The Masai believe that their (Rain) God Enkai granted all cattle to them for safe-keeping when the earth and sky split, allowing them to raid cattle from other tribes in their beliefs. The cattle serve many purposes: their milk and blood is used for food; the cowhide is used for mattresses, shoes and other accessories; their dung is used for plastering hut walls; their (sterile) urine has some medicinal and cleansing qualities; their meat is rarely taken for food (but may be used during ceremonies and in times of famine). Blood is obtained by shooting an arrow at close range through the cattle’s jugular vein, then capturing the spilled blood into a gourd (where it can be mixed with milk); the wound is not fatal and is patched afterwards. Cattle are a major sign of wealth and exchanged during marriage (to pay for brides). The quantity of cattle is more important than the quality and the Masai have well over a hundred words to describe their animals. However raising cattle is not without problems and the Masai have to continually seek out good grazing for their cattle, sometimes travelling for days during the dry season. Such freedom of movement is becoming far more difficult in modern times. Other animals including goats, sheep and some domestic animals are also kept. Although the Masai are still mainly cattle-rearing and previously despised farmers who plough the soil Masai are more frequently turning towards some types of cultivation, usually maize and some vegetables, in order to trade with other tribes.
The Masai Mara Game Drive
The views of this vast undulating grassland and hills are stunning. We were lucky to come across a big maned male lion who was guarding his kill (a zebra) in a clump of bushes followed by a cheetah about 15 minutes later. We saw small groups of elephants here and there but for me the highlight of the drive was on the way back to the lodge as the sun was going down. We came upon a long line of gnu marching east to their calving ground in the Loita Hills (not south to the Serengeti). The mooing of the big herd was distinctive as if talking to each and discussing the journey! I could have sat there watching them for hours but daylight was running out and we had to be back at the lodge for curfew time of 1800. Not everyone observes the curfew and I suspect those Masai cattle stay in the Reserve overnight with their two legged guardians watching out for lion attacks, armed with spears!
Fig Tree Camp
The following day we headed on to our next stop with a great game drive westards through the Masai Mara. We were lucky enough to have excellent sightings of cheetah, gnu, topi, elephant and buffalo all en route to Fig Tree Camp. The camp is situated on an ox-bow bend in the Talek River near the Talek Gate. Fig Tree camp is one of the original Mara Camps and it is actually located just outside the national reserve boundaries but it still subject to park fees. On arrival at this camp vehicles are left in a parking area and guests walk over a small bridge into the camp. I was shown around the camp by the manager, who had been at the camp for 28 years and obviously knew it ‘like the back of his hand’. It’s north-central location makes it very well sited for excellent game drives in the reserve. There are 38 standard plus 10 Ngamboli tents overlooking the river and 22 chalets overlooking the gardens. All the rooms are quite closely spaced together but it doesn’t detract from the experience. I enjoyed this lovely camp and although it is big, it still manages to feel pretty intimate. Fig Tree Camp is also conveniently located only three miles from a hot air balloon site. There are 3 balloon sites in the Mara area – the others are near the Mara Serena Lodge and Little Governors Camp.
The Mara River
On leaving Fig Tree Camp, we took the only permanent route across the Mara, whatever the weather. This route goes east from Fig Tree and then south from the Talek Gate to near Keekorok Lodge then bears west to Mara South River Gate and the border with Tanzania. Sammy took us to the unofficial border which was a very simple post in the ground with a plank of wood across the top and arrow ‘T’ pointing south and on the other end of the plank an arrow ‘K’ pointing north! The Mara River is the biggest single obstacle that the big herds (of wildebeest, zebra and plains game) come up against on their journey from the southern Serengeti on their annual migration and therefore it is an excellent place for game viewing throughout the year. As we crossed the Mara River, Sammy stopped the vehicle half way over the bridge so we could enjoy the full spectacle and take some photos. It is here at one of the big crossing points that we saw evidence of the animals that hadn’t made it. There were carcases bobbing about in the water with vultures and marabou storks squatting or hopping about from one body to another. No shortage of food here for the crocs and other predators whether feathered or not.
The Mara Serena Lodge
We continued our journey north westerly into the Mara Triangle which is the least developed part of the Masai Mara Reserve. It has as a spectacular location, hemmed in by the Oloololo Escarpment to the east and the Mara River to the west. Only one lodge lies in this area and that is the large but very stylish, Mara Serena. This lovely lodge is set high on a saddle overlooking rolling grasslands and is close to one of the busiest crossing points on the Mara River at migration time. The Mara Triangle is the best part of the Masai Mara reserve to spot elephant and also black rhino. They are both rarely sighted in other parts of the Masai Mara but can be found in the swampy areas by the Oloololo. Cheetah and lion are also common in this area.
Posted by Lily