Which area of the Masai Mara should I visit? When should I safari in the Mara? Which are the best Mara Lodges and Camps? Read on for my guide to this fantastic safari destination.
The Masai Mara Reserve in Kenya is one of the world’s greatest places to view animals. But when should you go, how should you get there and where should you stay? Robert Ferguson has travelled to the Mara many times and now runs a leading UK safari operator.
Of all the game reserves in Kenya, the most famous is the Masai Mara. Situated on the south-west border with Tanzania, it joins the Serengeti National Park to create a much larger eco-system, one that is home to one of the World’s greatest wildlife spectacles the Great Migration. On this, wildebeests and zebra move constantly throughout the year in search of fresh grazing, culminating in their crossing of the Mara river in July and August. The rainy season in the Mara is April to June, with the small rains coming in November. Even during the worst of the rains it’s unusual to get more than a few hours (heavy) rain a day, so it’s quite possible to visit during this time. However you do have to be prepared that tracks become impassable, rivers burst their banks and with all the growing vegetation the animals can be harder to see. That said, given the right planning and visiting areas of the park less exposed to these problems, it can be a great time to go. Everywhere is green and fresh, there is a lot less dust when driving, there are less people and other vehicles and the prices are cheaper. I’ve been to the Mara in April, May and June and have had a great time each time with plenty of animals seen.
Everybody who goes on safari in Kenya will want to visit the reserve and rightly so, as it is famed for its wildlife, especially sightings of the big cats. Most people who visit, especially those on a drive-in safari, arrive to the south east of the reserve, entering by the Sekenani Gate. Many of the larger lodges are found in this area of the Reserve.
The first lodge to be built within the reserve, and refurbished in 2008-9, was Keekerok Lodge. This property, with just under 100 rooms is a low level building based around lovely gardens, a pool and a raised walkway that takes you to a bar and viewing area over a small waterhole.
Nearby, overlooking the Talek river, one of the smaller waterways in the reserve but home to hippos who wallow below the dining room, is the Mara Simba. Here the rooms are arranged in a long wing so that the rooms all overlook the river. The dining room and bar area is open plan as well.
The Mara Sopa is situated on the very edge of the reserve, on a small rise that gives good views back into the park. It has the theme of African rondoval, with plenty of earthy colours and local Masai Art.
Just inside the Sekenani gate is the Mara Sarova. This camp is a popular choice with families as the entire camp is fenced, meaning children cannot get out and animals cannot get in. Set in quite a large area of gardens it also offers e tented option. As well as the rooms you can stay in a safari tent (complete with en suite bathroom) to really get the full safari experience.
Similarly, Fig Tree Camp situated on the north eastern perimeter has both rooms and tents, as well as a great suspension bridge you cross to access the lodge itself. There are lovely terraces looking down over the river that runs in front of it, including one table built on a platform in a large (Fig) tree.
Inside the reserve, but an hour further to the south west, is the Mara Serena. Situated on top of a small hill it offers excellent views out over the plains that surround it, as well as down to the Mara River. The rooms are in two wings that hug the top of the hill and mean that everybody gets a view out from their room. It has a large central dining room, as well as a small pool set amidst some terraces and gardens.
As you reach the north of the reserve you reach some of the more remote properties. These tend to be more expensive and most people choose to fly in to then because of the additional driving times from Naivasha and Nairobi. They are accessed by the Oloololo gate.
Within the main reserve is the famous Governors Camp. This comprises of the main Governors Camp and Little Governors, a smaller tented camp nearby. It is situated on what was originally the hunting camp for the old British Governor and his guests during colonial days. It has brought some of this grandeur through in its style; elegant, traditional and luxurious. It has became famous recently for being the location of several high profile filming trips – Big Cat Diaries and Living Planet live from the BBC and also a Disney film. It offers a diversity of habitat to explore because of its proximity to the Musiara Swamp in the north of the reserve and several large (and now famous) prides of lions.
Another stunning camp we use within the National Reserve is Naibor Camp. This stunning camp is on the banks of the Talek river, and has just 9 tents, two of which are by themselves in the Little Naibor Camp. Great game viewing, great location and superb service.
As well as the original National reserve – an area of some 1,500 square kilometres – there are now several conservation areas around this which are also dedicated to wildlife conservation. The Trans-Mara Conservation Area, Lemek Conservation Area, Olkinyei Conservation Area, Siana Conservation Area and the Mara North and Great Plains Conservation Areas are all established in conjunction with the local tribes and villages who live in them. The Masai tribesmen are not banned from them, far from it, The lodges and camps within them are leased from the villagers and provide employment and services for them as a partnership. Its success is that it encouraged the villagers to view the wildlife as a source of income and not just a threat to their herds, and allows the lodges and camps to benefit from proper integration into the communities they live with.
Many of these camps are small and exclusive, but they all offer superb viewing in areas that are much less visited that the plains near the Sekenani Gate. Lodges include Kichwa Tembo, Mara River Camp and many more, all in lovely locations.
An example of such a camp is the Karen Blixen Camp. This tented camp – each of its 22 tents have wooden floors, thatched roves, en suite
bathrooms and luxurious fittings – is situated on the banks of the Mara River, near to a bend and large pool filled with hippos and drinking animals. Every
tent has its own veranda to relax on, or gardens to sit in. The open plan dining room and bar look out over the river and escarpment beyond. Game viewing is done in the open 4×4 vehicles owned by the lodge, a feature of all camps in the Mara North conservancy in order to keep the number of vehicles to a minimum and therefore maximise the wilderness experience of their guests.
To get to the Mara you either fly or drive. Flights go from Nairobi (Wilson airport), Naivasha in the Great Rift Valley or Mombasa on the coast. Flight time from Nairobi is approximately an hour, depending on which of the dirt strips you will be getting off at. The flights tent to start at Keekerok and fly north, stopping where requested.
The drive from Naivasha will take approximated 5-6 hours. The road is pot-holed and unsealed in places making progress slow. It was completely resurfaced in 2009 but is in desperate need of more work. According to the Kenyan High Commissioner to London, Mr. Ngare, with whom I had lunch a couple of months back, work on the road will start soon. It is a long bumpy journey but its part of the journey. You see things as you go, including driving down into, across and then out of the Great Rift Valley.
What would I do? I’d go in June (everywhere is green and fresh), stay in a small camp in the Northern Mara Conservancy (worth the extra money for the experience (and luxury)), drive in for the experience and fly out for the views.
Whenever you go, wherever you stay, have a great safari.
