As the second May bank holiday hurtles ever nearer, I feel the need, encouraged by our children, to dust off the tent and the camp stove and to get away for a weekend’s camping.
Memories of last year’s camping expeditions have faded sufficiently for me to embrace the idea with renewed enthusiasm. Afterall, it’s a tradition, to head off, with the car groaning under the weight of camping gear and the dog squeezed into one corner, to calve out a small but perfectly formed space in a field, amidst the sea of other tents. If it isn’t lashing with rain and blowing a gale, it just isn’t the same. ‘Character building’, my father would’ve called it.
So, if you like me, are simply masquerading as a happy camper, then perhaps it’s time to try something different.
No, not glamping but bush camping, Zambia style.
Cast off any image of battling with canvas in a storm, of crowded camp sites and hullabaloo. In Zambia you are treated to acres of wilderness with not another vehicle in sight very often. Small, discreet bush camps snuggle on the edge of a lagoon or within a shady grove of trees. And the only crowd? Well the snorting hippos make a bit of a racket I suppose…
Welcome to Zambia’s most exclusive camps – the bush camps, who, as I write, are unfurling the canvas for another year.
Bush camp basics – what is a bush camp anyway?
A bush camp is a seasonal camp which is taken down at the end of the dry season and leaves very little impact on the environment. You can enjoy a good deal of comfort with proper beds, rugs and furniture and an ensuite bathroom, usually open to the stars, complete with a flushing loo and hot shower. There’s a deck too for you to sit and soak up the views.
Bush camps are constructed from locally sourced natural material like reed, grass and thatch, as well as using canvas. They blend in to their environment. In my opinion, they are the epitome of safari chic and an incredible way to experience the thrill of real, unspoilt and off the beaten track Africa.
Bush camps should not be confused with fly-camps. Fly-camps are impromptu camps set up just for a night some distance from the main camp or lodge. You would usually walk to a fly-camp during the cool of the afternoon. You sleep on a bedroll on the floor, with a simple gauze mosquito net or a tent for shelter. There will be a bucket shower and short -drop loo. Simple meals are served around the camp-fire. This is back to basics camping, and a great option for a night if you really want to feel at one with the wilderness.
Traditionally, bush camps started off like this – as pretty basic affairs set up for hard-core walkers. However over time bush camps have evolved and now, although still very small and intimate in their nature, they offer considerably more comfort, convenience and luxury compared to a fly-camp.
Many bush camps now offer a combination of walking and 4×4 safaris. In South Luangwa,
night drives are a real highlight.
Each camp has its own distinct personality and attributes.
In summary, bush camps are:
- Seasonal, usually mid May to the end of October in South Luangwa
- Set up in beautiful, remote locations where wildlife is prolific
- Small and intimate, with just a handful of tents
A profile of some of our favourite bush camps in the South Luangwa Valley
Norman Carr offers four bush camps in the northern part of the South Luangwa Valley, all open between 15 May and 31 October this year. Several of these stunning camps feature in our sample online itinerary, the Classic South Luangwa Walking Safari, the ultimate way to really experience the wildlife, landscapes and camps of the valley.
Luwi Camp
Set on the banks of the seasonal Luwi River under a canopy of mahogany trees around 12 km from the Luangwa River this rustic camp has a fabulous hippo hide, overlooking a hippo lagoon, one of two permanent lagoons near camp. The permanent source of water close to camp ensures a steady procession of wild visitors.
You really feel out in the wilderness at Luwi, which was one of the first bush camps in the Luangwa Valley and with the use of natural, locally sourced materials blends into the landscape beautifully. There are just four chalets constructed from wood, grass and thatch with large outdoor bathrooms. There are reed mats on the floor and some simple rustic furniture. Everything is paired down and simple. There is no electricity here, but solar lanterns provide illumination after sun down and there is a steady supply of hot water.
Meals are served either in the shade of the trees (brunch and afternoon tea) or under the stars around the camp fire (three course evening meal). The small bar with its sand floor is a good place to watch the sunset and to make the most of the views across the floodplain.
Luwi is a classic walking safari camp – there are few roads in this remote zone of the valley and so exploration is best done on foot with a guide. Sister camp Nsolo is around 7km away and the walk there ranks as a highlight for anyone lucky enough to have done it.
Mchenja
Right on the banks of the majestic Luangwa River, Mchenja is an altogether more showy camp.
Surrounded by an ebony grove, all five tented chalets have sweeping views of the river. The airy octagonal tents lead to ensuite bathrooms, open to the air, complete with Victorian roll-top bath and river view.
You can enjoy walking safaris here, as well as day and evening game drives. Because of the extra level of comfort and luxury – there is even a plunge pool in camp – we recommend saving your last night or two for Mchenja.
It’s absolutely fantastic to be right on the river, and this camp contrasts well with the more simple Luwi Bush Camp
Nsolo
Nsolo, like Luwi is one of the original Zambian bush camps and it really appeals to people who want to experience wildlife up close in a truly remote and untouched area while enjoying comfort, wonderful hospitality and guiding and a bit of African ‘bush’ style. The four large chalets with grass and reed walls are raised up with a private deck area and lovely views. Each runs on solar power and has an open air bathroom with a super hot shower and a flush loo.
At the heart of the camp is a traditional ‘chitenje’ – an open sided thatched area where meals are enjoyed and guests can pour over books, have a drink from the bar and watch the comings and going of the wildlife from the permanent pools of water beyond camp. There is also a very special sundowner spot on the riverbed.
Kakuli
Kakuli stands out because it offers a slightly longer season, remaining open until 7 November. Standing in an elevated position on the banks of the Luangwa River, the camp has four traditional walk-in, simple safari tents with ensuite bathrooms. Unlike the other camps, Kakuli has a very open feel to it. The front of the tents unzip to reveal astounding views of the wide sweep of river while lovely large showers have plentiful hot water.
The central bar area with its thatched roof, open sides and sandy floor overlooks a grassy zone leading down to the river where wildlife frequently visits. Lounging on a sofa with a cool drink is a lovely way to while away an evening either here or further down near the fire pit.
Guests can join walking safaris, as well as going on game drives from Kakuli but one of the real highlights is exploring the riverside at night, when the elusive leopards are prowling. When the river is high, some game viewing activities take to the water in the camp’s boat.
Land of the Leopard – why you really want to explore the South Luangwa Valley
Leopards have to be right up there as a reason to go to South Luangwa. I had one of my most memorable leopard enocunters in the valley – it was during a torrential downpour during a night drive (in an open vehicle I hasten to add!) in late October. There were great cracks of thunder and out of the darkness came the roar of lions. Our guide then spotted the eye shine of a leopard – we were so close and had not realised. There the leopard crouched, looking very regal, right next to us, enveloped in the darkness in the shelter of a thicket. If that doesn’t give you goosebumps then …
Leopards are not the only big cats making an impact on visitors to South Luangwa. The northern area, around these bush camps is also well known for its lions. Lion Plain is a game rich area accessible from the camps.
Wild dogs can also be seen in the area (I need to go back as this was about the only thing I didn’t see…). They are great water lovers and den in the area.
There are 60 different animal species and around 400 bird species, including 39 birds of prey in the park. Thornicroft giraffe amble across the plains while impressive herds of elephant gather at the river. Moody congregations of buffalo can also be seen along with zebra and a range of antelope. The only notable exception is really the rhino, sadly poached to extinction here.
The landscape is very beautiful with some magnificent baobabs, winterthorn, mopane, leadwood and marula trees. One of the Norman Carr bush camps occupies an ebony grove which is very special.
Most importantly, the guides in South Luangwa have a reputation for being among the best. This can add immeasurable value to your trip.
All Real Africa’s trips to Zambia are tailor-made according to your specification, so if the wild open spaces and the incredible wildlife of this spectacular country appeal to you then be sure to check out the website and call us on 01603 283517.
By Sara White